What Is Oystersteel? Unpacking Rolex’s Premium Stainless Steel Alloy
Stainless steel has long been the material of choice in watchmaking due to its durability, resistance to corrosion, and sleek aesthetic. But when it comes to pushing boundaries in metallurgy, Rolex continues to lead the way.
Just as the brand developed Everose gold and Rolesor, Rolex has also elevated stainless steel with the creation of a material known as Oystersteel—a robust and refined alloy that speaks to Rolex’s commitment to performance, innovation, and timeless design.
What Is Oystersteel?
Oystersteel is Rolex’s branded name for 904L stainless steel, a high-performance alloy typically used in industries that demand exceptional corrosion resistance—such as aerospace and deep-sea exploration.
While Rolex did not invent 904L stainless steel, it did pioneer its use in luxury watchmaking. Most of the industry relies on 316L stainless steel, which is strong and reliable. However, 904L offers elevated resistance to corrosion and can achieve an unrivaled, lasting polish—making it ideal for watches that must perform under the most challenging conditions.
The Origins of Oystersteel
The story of Oystersteel begins decades ago:
Early 1970s: Omega first explored the use of 904L stainless steel, inspired by French deep-sea diving specialists Comex, who used the alloy in their diving bells.
Late 1970s: Rolex produced a now-iconic, limited-edition Comex Sea-Dweller crafted from 904L steel.
1980s: Rolex began using 904L steel selectively, initially in their professional dive models such as the Sea-Dweller and later the Submariner.
2003: Rolex transitioned its entire steel watch lineup to 904L.
2018: Rolex officially introduced the Oystersteel name at Baselworld, branding their unique use of 904L and emphasizing its elite status in watchmaking.
Why 904L? The Benefits of Oystersteel
1. Superior Corrosion Resistance
Unlike 316L, Oystersteel contains higher levels of molybdenum, nickel, chromium, and copper. These elements dramatically enhance the metal’s ability to resist corrosion—even from saltwater, sweat, or environmental exposure.
2. Exceptional Finish
Oystersteel polishes to an extraordinary luster, maintaining its sheen and aesthetic brilliance over time. Rolex timepieces crafted from this alloy retain that unmistakable “just unboxed” glow for decades.
3. Strength & Durability
Though harder to machine, 904L is incredibly strong. Rolex has invested in custom machinery and tooling at its Geneva-based foundry to work exclusively with Oystersteel, ensuring every case, bracelet, and clasp meets its exacting standards.
Is Oystersteel Made In-House?
Yes. While 904L is not exclusive to Rolex, the in-house production of Oystersteel at Rolex’s own foundry allows for unmatched quality control and consistency. This dedication ensures that every watch component performs and ages exactly as intended.
Is Oystersteel Scratch-Resistant?
While no steel is entirely scratch-proof, Oystersteel is highly resistant to scratches and wear thanks to its hardness and density. Additionally, its anti-corrosive properties protect the watch from moisture, chemicals, and even the wearer’s skin oils—placing it on par with precious metals in terms of resilience.
Oystersteel vs. Traditional Stainless Steel
Property316L Stainless Steel904L / OystersteelCorrosion ResistanceHighExceptionalShine & Finish RetentionGoodSuperiorCostLowerHigher (more complex to machine)Used By Rolex?NoYes (all steel models since 2003)
904L stainless steel, rebranded as Oystersteel by Rolex, offers superior performance in almost every category. It is, quite literally, stainless steel taken to the next level.
Conclusion: The Strength Behind the Shine
Rolex’s decision to adopt and perfect 904L stainless steel—renamed Oystersteel—speaks volumes about its commitment to innovation, quality, and longevity. By combining high-performance materials with timeless design, Rolex ensures that every watch not only stands the test of time but also retains its iconic elegance.
In a world of fleeting trends, Oystersteel represents permanence—the very essence of the Rolex philosophy: Perpetual excellence.
